STORIES
How tracing the authenticity of Zlatarski cheese made it a sought-after
In Serbia, cheese producers were being damaged by the misuse of the name "Zlatar cheese" until the government stepped in to make it a brand.
Serbia
Made according to a cherished grandmother's recipe, Zlatar cheese (Zlatarski sir) is a unique product. It is crafted from cow's milk sourced from mountain pastures and a healthy environment, and it takes its name from its production area: the Zlatar massif, in the Starovlaška Highlands, between the rivers Uvac, Veljušnica, Kladnica, Mileševka, and Zlošnica. This region is known for its water-rich habitats, stunning landscape, and biological diversity, all of which contribute to the cheese's exceptional quality and taste.
'In the Serbian countryside, Zlatar cheese is more than just a product; it embodies resilience and tradition, providing a sense of identity for an isolated rural community. Its economic impact, though modest, is significant, and its recognition in Serbia is both immediate and profound', says the Serbian Minister of Agriculture, Branislav Raketic.
The overbooking of the market with "fake" versions of Zlatar cheese resulted in tons of cheese being thrown away.
The impressive meanders of the Uvac River make this area one of the most beautiful in Serbia. The climatic and natural conditions, the pasture and forest terrain, the quality of the grass, and the extensive keeping of dairy cows, which graze freely for a large part of the year, guarantee the quality of the raw material. At the same time, the native flora in the air and the milk activated during the ripening process help to obtain a recognizable and appreciated cheese in brine.
Yet, ten years ago, the Nova Varos Zlatar cheese producers started to face two problems: the price of milk and the overbooking of the market with "fake" versions of Zlatar cheese, lacking any characteristics of authenticity. This resulted in tons of cheese being thrown away. The possible solution soon became clear: introducing a traceability system for this unique cheese, subject to the protection of geographical origin.
Thus, in 2021, the local government stepped in and, to protect the geographical origin of the Zlatar cheese, participated in a great project that animated the local producers and started the process of recognizing Zlatar as a brand. Soon after the merging of several producer associations, a single, combative, committed-to-products Association of Cheese producers emerged.
Under women's leadership, the "Farm of Milanka Trtovic" implemented activities to obtain product labels, a traceability system, and risk management in the food safety system. This protocol provided a reliable way that allows to track the entire production flow in order to identify and eliminate the potential risks to consumer health, and thus, indirectly, protect it.
"Many women taking charge in producing and managing under the 'Zlatarski sir' brand reshaped the narrative in a post-conflict Balkan society."
"Zlatar cheese production challenges stereotypes in a region deeply impacted by the events of the 90s", Raketic adds. "Many women taking charge in producing and managing under the 'Zlatarski sir' brand reshaped the narrative in a post-conflict Balkan society."
This geographical origin traceability system helped to clarify the official and particular process of Zlatar cheese production, which uses raw full-fat cow's milk exclusively produced in the Zlatar massif area, with milking activities being carried out all year round by machine or by hand, and preceded by cows' udder preparation, which consists of washing and disinfection.
This traceability system improved the quality and safety of this traditional cheese, reducing consumers' health risks. A direct way to contribute to its better competitiveness is to open roads in the local and surrounding markets and make Zlatarski cheese a sought-after product.